Day 7
Alarm goes off at 6am; I’m tempted to turn it off and go back to sleep but then I remember we are off on a cycling tour with Bali Go Bike in the hills around Ubud.
We’re supposed to meet our driver in the lobby at 7am but we get there a little early so take the opportunity to call Dad for a chat (our first of the whole trip, oops!).
It’s a long drive up to Ubud as we navigate through the Denpasar traffic. We are joined on the tour with Sarah from London and a couple from Switzerland who are staying in Ubud. We pick up one of our guides, Gede, on the way to the coffee plantation where we get an explanation of how Kopi Luwak coffee is made. Despite it being the worlds most expensive coffee, mum isn’t game enough to try it knowing where is has originated from. The Swiss couple in our group did buy a cup of the “cat poo coffee” and said it just tasted like normal coffee, this made me laugh. I don’t drink coffee at all, so I just stick with the lemongrass and ginger tea samples which are both great. We meet our two additional guides, Ketut and Made, who will join us at the start line along with another 8 tour members.

Coffee and tea tasting at a coffee plantation, Ubud
By now it is almost 10am, so our next stop is breakfast overlooking the Mt Batur volcano and crater lake. The volcano is currently inactive, but you can still see where the lava flowed down the hill during the last eruption; nothing grows there. The banana pancakes were especially yummy. With our tummies full of food we are ready to start cycling. We are each kitted out with a helmet, bike and cycle gloves and off we go. Mum only made it about a km down the road before her bike chain fell off and ripped the bottom of her pants. Good start!

Breakfast overlooking Mt Batur volcano and lake
We continue cycling over the very bumpy gravel roads. I didn’t actually take in the scenery too much because I was afraid I would fall off my bike so instead I kept a constant eye on where I was peddling. Our first stop is to watch a cock fight. The arena surrounding the fight is full but we still try to sneak a peek. That’s until the crowd scattered when the cock starting jumping about, that was it, I was outta there. The cocks have these big spikes on the end of their claws and I was having none of that coming near me.
Back on the bikes for a smother ride through a little village where we stop to admire a traditional temple and one of the statues made by the locals for the Nyepi festival. We continue riding along the narrow roads; it’s all down hill riding so we don’t even really have to pedal at all.

Nyepi Festival statue
The scenery changes again, now we are riding through rice paddies. We stop to allow Gede to explain how the rice is grown. It seems like such a pain staking process for so little result.

Rice paddies in Ubud
Back on the bike and through another village where the children yell “hello’ from their houses while we dodge piles of rice drying on the road. Ketut shows us the Indonesian President’s holiday house/compound. It is full of animals; it’s like a menagerie. Back on the bikes for our final leg, we pass more children who run out onto the road to “high five” us. I struggle the last 5km – I think the combination of the heat and a few hills has got to me. So, Made joins mum and I for a more leisurely ride back. We had a few people in the group who kept a pretty fast pace, so they made it back to the finish line a little before us stragglers, but I’m happy to say Mum and I weren’t the last to arrive at the family compound. With a much-needed bottle of water, we settle down for some lunch of traditional Balinese food. It was so yummy and the grounds and buildings in the compound were stunning.

Ketut’s family compound in Ubud
Before the day ends, we get a quick lesson in playing traditional Balinese music instruments. Despite our lack of skills, IMHO we all sounded pretty good. It’s a long drive back to Seminyak in the busy traffic and I’m pretty sure I doze off a couple of times.
Just as we walked into our hotel room, Dad called to ask us if we felt the Earthquake. What?! We turn on the TV to CNN to the news that there was an 8.9 earthquake off the coast of Banda Aceh only 30 mins ago and they have announced a tsunami alert for the whole Indonesian coast. We have no idea where Banda Aceh is so Dad leaves us to find out more details using the Wi-Fi by the pool. Looking at Google Maps, Aceh looks a long way away from Bali, but we head up to reception to find out more. The receptionist has heard nothing of the earthquake but tells us not to worry, Aceh is on the far northwest tip of Indonesia whereas Bali is on the far southeast tip. If the authorities give orders to evacuate, then all the guests will be taken care of. This settles our nerves a little, but we decide to head up to the Commonwealth Bank ATM at Bintang to get some emergency cash out just in case we should need it.
While we are there we cant resist a spot of shopping, so while mum is busy buying a necklace for my sister Dad calls for an update. He has been putting together a plan of attack for us, should we need to evacuate – pack our bags and get a taxi straight up to “Ubu” (Ubud), the highest town in Bali – he has clearly been on the net researching. I don’t have the heart to tell him we are currently shopping up a storm and are about to head out for dinner!
To be on the safe side we decide to have dinner at Me’nu because it’s close to the hotel. I don’t really remember if my meal was good, I was too distracted reading the latest news on the earthquake on Twitter and quelling our sisters/friends fears through posts on Facebook. I can see why people back home would be worried, the news reports were quite distressing, but there was certainly no panic on the streets of Seminyak, it was just business as usual.
We head back to the hotel, grabbing our passports from the safe on the way back to the room. We pack our bags as Dad suggested while watching the news reports on CNN. Happy to know that all our purchases fit in our two bags and we are under the luggage weight limits – this might call for some more shopping tomorrow if we survive the night!
Dad calls at 8.15 to tell us that the tsunami warning has been downgraded – how does he get this news before us? Either way its good news, we can relax again. I’ve managed to get myself a headache, my first of the trip, which I think was due to the stress of the last couple of hours, so I turn in early.
It’s our final full day in Bali tomorrow :o(
Day 8
We get our first sleep in of the holiday and I’m sure we would have slept longer had Dad not called us at 8am to see how we are after last night’s events. I’m sure he was more worried than we were, although I know I would have been the same if the situation were reversed.
Knowing we can add more weight to our luggage we decide to head to Geneva Handicraft for more shopping this morning. This place it great – 3 levels of bowls, plates, tablecloths, pillowcases and clothes all at a reasonable fixed price. Shopping heaven! We managed to pick a few items (of course!).
I’ve wanted to do high tea at Biku tearooms since we arrived in Bali and today I finally get my wish. My first cup of Early Grey tea for the whole holiday is great and the cakes, sandwiches and scones were all so yummy and very filling. Certainly no need for lunch today!

High tea @ Biku tearooms, Seminyak
We jump in another taxi to Bintang for, you guessed it, more DVD shopping. We wandered along the street looking at all the silver jewellery – the Balinese sure do know how to make nice, delicate jewellery. Taxi back to the hotel, where the smiling face of Wayan greets us. He isn’t working tomorrow, so we say our farewells and offer him a final gift for being so helpful and making our holiday so effortless and special. Again we are unsure if 300,000 RP ($30) is too little or too much, but he seems quite overwhelmed, so we’re happy.
We have a quick final dip in the pool before heading to Jimbaren Bay for a seafood dinner on the beach. I want to get there early to get a table at the front, so we jump in a taxi at around 4.50pm. I’m adamant that we go to Lia Café for 2 reasons; TA forum members say it is the best and I don’t want to be ripped off like last time I had dinner at Jimbaren Bay.
Our taxi driver is the best we’ve had all trip but he isn’t quite sure where Lia café is located. Luckily I know the location so just ask him to drop us near the Keraton Hotel. The taxi driver explained that the construction workers in Bali only earn $4.50 AUS per day. Taxi drivers are a little better off, however the taxi company takes 70% of each fare and the driver has to pay for their own petrol. So they actually only take home around 17% of the total fare. Tips are always welcome! Knowing this you can see why some drivers try to do non-metered trips.
We wander along the beach a little and stumble upon Lia café. Lucky we decided to get there early; we actually snag the final front row table just as another couple arrive behind us. I am shocked at the prices as I take a look at the menu – last time my friend Tara and I paid close to 1 million RP for our meal, whereas this meal is likely to cost us around 1/3 of that price. We chill out watching the sunset over the water while drinking Bintang’s and eating lobster, prawns, barracuda, squid and clams. Ahhhh, this is the life! So happy we made the trip to Jimbaren Bay for our final dinner in Bali.

Sunset seafood dinner on the beach @ Jimbaren Bay
I notice that the restaurants on either side of us are completely empty, while there is not a table free at Lia café – just goes to show how strong word of mouth can be. Although there is a restaurant a little further up that is packed with a large group of very happy and very drunk Japanese tourists who are enjoying an impromptu karaoke session.
The final bill for the evening comes to just over 400,000 RP – ridiculously cheap considering the amount of seafood we ate. We ask our waitress to order us a Bluebird taxi, but when it arrives its not a Bluebird. We decide to jump in it anyway because we are in a very quite area and will probably struggle to flag a taxi down on the street. We expect to have to pay a fortune to this “rogue” taxi driver, especially when the meter seems to rise very quickly during the drive. However when the driver drops us at Carla Spa just near our hotel we have only paid an extra 10,000 RP more than our trip down to Jimbaren Bay.
Our final visit to Carla Spa is spent getting a cream bath for our hair. Ummm, why haven’t we got one of these earlier in our holiday? It’s so nice and includes a hair treatment, neck/arm/hand massage and blow-dry – HEAVEN! I am again told I have beautiful hair and asked if I am a hairdresser. Haha, I wish I had the patience & creativity to be a hairdresser!
We walk back to the hotel via the little supermarket where we pick up some supplies for the plane ride home – cola flavoured Mentos FTW!
In bed by 11pm, we have to be up at 6am tomorrow for our flight home.
Day 9
I woke at midnight to big stomach cramps and the runs. Uh oh, this isn’t good when we are flying home today!
I spend most of the night flitting between the toilet and bed trying to get some sleep but fail miserably. By the time my alarm goes off at 6am, I estimate I have had around 2 hours sleep total. I tell mum I am skipping breakfast so I can try to get some more sleep. I reluctantly crawl out of bed at 7.30, throw on some clothes, pack my bag and make our way up to reception.
Our airport transfer arrives at 8.30 and it’s a pretty quick ride to the airport. When we arrive at the Jetstar check-in desk it has only just opened. All of our bags are under the weight restrictions – my check luggage is 14.5kg while Mum’s is 18.9kg. The lady behind the counter doesn’t even look twice at our cabin luggage, which are both close to the 7kg limit.
The airport is really quiet so we get through immigration in no time. My tummy is still doing backflips so we attempt to find the Prada Lounge so I can relax before the flight but despite doing two laps around the airport we cant find it. I’ve still got quite a few thousand Rupiah left so I think about buying a little wooden owl I find in one of the airport stores. The lady at the counter can’t tell me if it will make it through Australian customs but I decided to run the risk – after all it only cost me $4.
The incoming flight from Perth arrived late causing our flight to be delayed. We are still sitting in the departure lounge at the time we are supposed to be scooting off the runway and I am getting restless. My tired and sick state is making we cranky; all I want to do is get on the flight and sleep so my stomach doesn’t cause me too much trouble.
I survived the flight without too many visits to the toilet and we arrive back into Perth at 4pm. It only takes us 45 minutes to buy our duty free alcohol (3 x 1 litre bottle of Bacardi for me – woohoo!) and clear customs. Not one of our purchases is confiscated so we’re very happy.
Mum’s first overseas trip was a success! She loved Bali, although 9 days is not nearly long enough to experience all that the wonderful island has to offer. Mum assures me that she will definitely head back though; I guess she should take my sister’s next time after we left them at home (and maybe Dad too, if he’s lucky!).